India

Who:  Cathleen, Olaf, Winona (Olaf's sister) and me!

What:  A CNY adventure to India!

When:  CNY 2013

Where:  New Delhi, Agra, Ranthambore, and Jaipur

Why:  Here's how it went:  Winona was planning to be in Mumbai on business in February.  Olaf convinced her to finish her business in Mumbai in time for her to meet him and Cathleen in Delhi for the Chinese New Year vacation.  I got wind of their plans back in September and jumped at the opportunity to join them, as it was pretty much the only country left in Asia that I wanted to see before I left. Also, I knew I'd be teaching The Guide by R.K. Narayan this year, so I thought it would give some context to the novel for me. Olaf planned and booked the whole thing.  Olaf and Cathleen are also the ones who helped connect me with ZIS.  They are great friends, to say the least.  I'm looking forward to our next adventure together, which will most likely be in Santiago, Chile sometime in 2014, which is where they're moving next year.

All four of us outside the entrance gate to the Taj Mahal


How:  China Southern Airlines to Delhi with a stopover in Guangzhou, China (and back the same way).  I was happy to get a China stamp in my passport, so now I've technically been to China.  I was not happy to fly China Southern, and I can guarantee you I never will fly it again.  Upon arriving in Delhi, we were picked up by Bobby, who was our driver the whole week. We were in Delhi for 2 nights, Agra for 1 night, Ranthambore for 2 nights, and Jaipur for 1 night.  It took a day or so to get used to Bobby, but we were in love with him by the time we got to Agra.

Highlight:  Believe it or not, my highlight was not the Taj Mahal.  It was Ranthambore.  I absolutely LOVED our hotel, Khem Villas.  It completely sustained itself (did their own farming, maintained their own livestock - not for meat, but for milk and eggs - and were very "green"), and the service was wonderful: delicious food, lovely campfires in the evenings, hot water bottles in our beds at night, a peaceful spa overlooking the fields and forests, and wake up calls replete with hot tea and cakes.  It was the perfect combo of rustic luxury.  Dreamy!  On top of that, our morning safari was a delight.  We were picked up at 6:30AM, outfitted with blankets, snacks, and waters, and were off for 3 hours of peace amongst the wildlife of Ranthambore.  It was a much needed reprieve from the crazy cities.  Oh, and we saw a tiger - but more on that later!

Ancient hunting palace in the jungles of Ranthamborne (circa 970 AD).

Lowlight:  Most people would probably say the poverty, but we were kept away from the slums in Delhi, and the remaining poverty I witnessed was much like what I've seen in Cambodia, Thailand, the Philippines, and other Southeast Asian countries, so sadly, it was not shocking to me.  No, my lowlight was far more selfish.  I had a very difficult time with all of the driving.  I spent most of the trip either sore or having to go to the ladies room, so I was pretty uncomfortable at all times.  I had been worried that my back-to-back journeys (5 day trip stressful to London followed by a 6 day rigorous journey to India) would take a toll on me, and they did.  Driving in India is rough, and for one with a weak bladder, it's even rougher.  On top of that, there were very few places to stop on our drives to Agra, Ranthambore, and Jaipur.  And Bobby absolutely would not let me relieve myself in a local restroom or behind a bush.  I understood why, but one time I was to the point of tears.  On top of that, my back and knees were a mess. I'm just not a sightseeing/road tripping kind of traveler. Unfortunately, I spent much of my trip to India simply going through the motions, soaking in very little of all I saw and experienced (except in Ranthambore). 

Overall Rating:  Per my reflections in my "lowlights" category, I don't know if I could accurately rate India at this time.  My mind is distracted by Europe these days, and I am already calloused by other travels in Southeast Asia.  I guess I would say this, though:  India is a trip only for those who are truly interested in it or who are seasoned travelers.  If it's just something to check off a list or something that "might" be interesting, think twice (unless you're young and in search for whatever it is you're searching for, then you should go because you'll find it).  India is NOT an easy trip.  On the other hand,  I know several people who refer to it as a spiritual place for them.  It certainly was not for me, but then, maybe Cambodia wouldn't be for them.  Everyone has that country that changes their heart.  India was not that country for me (in India's defense, my heart was not open to change this week), but the history and culture there are fascinating nonetheless, and of course the food was delicious!  But India is complete chaos, and you cannot escape it no matter where you eat or where you stay.  There is a different level of crazy in India, and if you really want to experience it, then get some practice in the Philippines or Cambodia or Indonesia first, and then...brace yourself!!!!

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